-->
Showing posts with label gardening. Show all posts
Showing posts with label gardening. Show all posts
Backyard DIY: Ladybug Feeder
BACKYARD HABITAT

In case aphids are in limited supply to your ladybugs, the polka-dotted pretties will still need a source of food if you want them to stay in your backyard habitat. This simple ladybug feeder will keep them happy and dry throughout the seasons.

Step 1 - Prepping the Bamboo

Measure your bamboo. Marked off at 10". After you've made your mark, use your pencil to draw a line tapering the end at an angle. This will provide a sort of umbrella to keep the rain out of your ladybug feeder. Use your saw to cut the line at the angle, being careful not to split your bamboo. Do the same thing on the opposite end and then you're left with the finished bamboo. If your ends are really sharp or jagged, you can gently sand them with a piece of sandpaper.

Step 2 - Adding The Holes

Use your drill to drill holes just slightly bigger than the twine you're using.

Step 3 - Assembling

Insert twine ends through the holes, making a double knot on each end.

Step 4 - Finishing Touches

When you hang your ladybug feeder, insert a few raisins into the feeder. The raisins will draw the ladybugs to the feeder and feed them if aphids or other insects are scarce.

Step 5 – Hanging

Mount the feeder close to a food source, we recommend near flowering plants such as rose bushes or other notorious aphid attracters.


(Image:TheGreenHead)

Related: Backyard Critters: Ladybugs




Share this post.
08.14.13  12:00PM    KAREN B








Categories: backyard habitat,gardening
Backyard Critters: Lady Bugs
BACKYARD HABITAT

Ladybugs live in gardens around the world, and they are often welcome visitors, since they eat agricultural pests like aphids. Technically, a ladybug is a beetle, not a bug.

One of the easiest plants I know to grow for ladybugs is cilantro. It produces a nice flower that attracts the ladybugs and it reseeds in the spring. Beneficial insects are often attracted to plants with tiny white flowers. Flowers and herbs such as dill, fennel, caraway, yarrow, tansy, angelica, scented geraniums, are also good choices for luring the ladybug. Early-blooming mustard flowers attract adults in search of food. You may also want to plant some tulips and/or lilies and other cup-shaped flowers around. The ladybugs love this bloom shape due to the fact that these blooms capture water and keep things inside them somewhat cool. Thus, ladybugs like to make their homes in them.

Tolerate light aphid outbreaks in spring, because they are an important food source for ladybugs. The young larvae, black with orange markings, eat more pests than the adults, and they can't fly. On average a ladybug can eat up to fifty aphids a day. Do not use pesticides of any kind when lady beetles larvae are active.

If you struggle to attract ladybugs to your garden you can always buy them from a local gardening store and introduce them to your pre-made ladybug haven. Plan on setting them out there on a cool night, in fact you can refrigerate the bugs for a couple hours to slow them down before setting them out. Keep the plants wet for a few days after introducing the polka-dotted pretties, in order to stop them from migrating and to encourage them to make their home in your garden. By the next season you could have any where upwards of three generations of ladybugs making their home in your vegetable patch.


(Image:WiseGeek)

Related: Attracting Wildlife: Dead Trees




Share this post.
08.07.13  12:00PM    KAREN B








Categories: backyard habitat,gardening
Attracting Wildlife: Dead Trees
BACKYARD HABITAT

Dead trees provide a vital habitat for more than a thousand species of wildlife. They count as cover and places to raise young in the requirements for backyard habitat designation. There are two different definitions for dead trees. There are snags, which is name for dead trees that are left upright to decompose naturally, and there are logs, which are snags (or part of a snag) that falls on the ground, it becomes a log—also very useful for wildlife habitat.

By some estimates, the removal of dead material from forests can mean a loss of habitat for up to one-fifth of the animals in the ecosystem. Wildlife species use nearly every part of a dead tree in every stage of its decay for things such as:

A Place to Live: Many animals, including birds, bats, squirrels and raccoons make nests in hollow cavities and crevices in a standing deadwood.

A Food Source: By attracting insects, mosses, lichens and fungi, deadwood becomes a gourmet restaurant for wildlife looking for a snack.

A Hiding Place: The nooks and crannies of a snag or log are put to good use by squirrels and other wildlife looking to store food.

A Soil Refresher: Mosses, lichens and fungi all grow on snags and aid in the return of vital nutrients to the soil. Decaying logs on the forest floor also act as "nurse logs" for new seedlings.

You can create a refuge for hundreds of woodland creatures by keeping snags in your yard (or constructing artificial snags if natural ones are not present). Despite the importance of snags to wildlife, many modern forestry practices encourage the removal of deadwood from the forest floor in an attempt to control pests and fungi, as well as for aesthetic reasons. In dry climates the removal of snags and other forest floor debris can cause and spread wildfires. Please consult your local forestry services to determine the risk level in your area.

When should I remove a snag? Never allow dead wood to rest against your home. Also any trees that may fall on your home (or a neighbor's home) should be removed. In both these cases, however, consider moving the wood to another safer area of your yard. As long as the snags are a reasonable distance from your home, termites and other pests won't find their way into your home.

If there are no natural snags in your yard, you can create artificial ones by trimming branches on live trees of varying sizes and types. Hardwood trees tend to make better nesting habitats while softer wood is better for food foraging. If you do not wish to create snags from living trees, the use of nesting boxes can be a good alternative. Three snags per acre is a good estimate for most areas, but you should check with your local wildlife management authority to get specific recommendations for your region.


(Image:Dr. Roy Winkelman)

Related: Backyard DIY: Squirrel Feeder




Share this post.
07.17.13  12:00PM    KAREN B








Categories: backyard habitat,gardening
Backyard DIY: Squirrel Feeder
BACKYARD HABITAT

Making a squirrel feeder for the backyard is a simple weekend project that requires just a fence board from your local hardware store.

Step 1 - Cutting the Frame

Use your ruler and pencil to measure and mark off the following sizes:
1 Mounting Board (A): 16" long
1 Base (B): Approximately 16" (this will vary with the size of the jar)
2 Sides (C): Total length of both sides will be 17.25" from this length you will cut an approximately 30 degree angled line so that it will make a angled roof. The short side should be 8" and the high side 9.25"
1 Front (D): 8" long
1 Roof (E): 8" long
1 Jar Support (F): Make the jar support by tracing the curve of the jar onto the wood. The lowest point of the curve should be 1 inch from the bottom of the board. The curved piece remaining from this will become the End Piece (G).

Note: All board widths are 5.5".

Now that you have your pieces measured it's a good idea to make a mark in the center of each one so it is easy to see which is which.

Step 2 - Adding The Holes

Cut entrance holes in both side pieces (c). Mark a spot about 3.5" inches from the highest corner of each board and center the hole from side to side. Draw a 3" diameter circle with a compass, then cut out the holes with a saber saw. Smooth any rough edges with sandpaper.

Make a hole in the front of the feeder to hold the neck of the jar. This is a tricky step because jars vary in size. Start by determining the radius of the jar's mouth. Then lay the jar on its side and measure from the tabletop to the bottom of the mouth. Add these two measurements plus 1.0". Mark this distance from the bottom of the front board and center. From this point, draw a circle .5" inch larger than the diameter of the mouth. Cut the hole with a saber saw.

Step 3 - Assembling

Assemble the front and sides of the squirrel feeder, then attach the assembled pieces to the base. These joints, and all others, will be fastened with 1.625" (1-5/8 inch) galvanized deck screws. Depending on the type of wood you are working with it could split easily, so be sure to pre drill holes in each piece before driving in the screws. Attach the jar support (f) about 3.0" from the far end of the base. Then position the rounded end piece, which keeps the jar from sliding out of the feeder, at the edge of the base. It is important that you make sure there is enough clearance for you to tip the jar out for filling. If it is too tight, use a piece of sandpaper to round the inside curved edge of this end piece until the jar can easily be removed. If the jar is too loose, move the rounded end farther up the base before attaching it. You want it just snug enough.

Step 4 - Finishing Touches

You may paint and add custom touches to your feeder as you like as long as it does not impede the squirrel from getting to its tasty treats.

Step 5 – Hanging

Mount the feeder on a tree with 2.5" deck screws (this will be a heavy feeder, you will need large screws) and fill it.


(Image:)

Related: Backyard Critters: Squirrels




Share this post.
07.10.13  12:00PM    KAREN B








Categories: backyard habitat,gardening
Backyard Critters: Squirrels
BACKYARD HABITAT

Squirrels are found all across North America in every setting imaginable. While many people try to get rid squirrels from their backyard, others grow to appreciate the activity the fluffy rodents add to the landscape. Attracting wildlife, such as squirrels, to your backyard requires many of the same strategies we have approached in the past to make your home friendly and inviting.

Squirrels are naturally skittish and do not like wide open spaces, like rabbits. Thick vegetation throughout your landscape provides them the cover that makes them feel safe and comfortable. Plant a few squirrel-friendly trees. Many trees have various qualities that will specifically attract squirrels, such as edible nuts or flowers, branching structure that creates the hollows and crooks that squirrels like to build their nests in, and easily scalable bark.

If you have dogs or cats, contain them in your home or to a section of your yard. Their constant presence in your backyard can deter squirrels from taking up residence in your landscape. Also be aware that squirrels often carry diseases and pests, such as fleas and ringworm. These can be carried into your home by your pet and spread to you.

Squirrels tend to scare off birds. If you like having birds around, separate your squirrel and bird feeding areas.


(Image:Mr.C's Wildlife Site)

Related: Backyard Birds: Purple Martins




Share this post.
07.03.13  12:00PM    KAREN B








Categories: backyard habitat,gardening
Backyard Birds: Purple Martins
BACKYARD HABITAT


Martins are aerial insectivores, they eat only flying insects, which they catch in flight. Their diet is diverse, however, they are not consumers of mosquitoes as is often claimed.

East of the Rockies they are totally dependent on human-supplied housing. West of the Rockies and in the deserts they largely nest in their natural ways, in abandoned woodpecker nest cavities. In the Pacific northwest, Martins have been noticed to use gourds and clusters of single-unit boxes for nesting. A major reason people fail to attract martins to their backyard is that they place their martin housing incorrectly, or their site is not a compatible martin habitat to begin with. Martins have very specific aerial space requirements. Housing should be placed in the center of the most open spot available, about 30-120 feet from your house. There should be no trees taller than the martin house within 60 feet, but 40 feet will work as well. Rule of thumb, the farther the housing is placed from trees, the better. Keep tall bushes, shrubs and vines away from the pole. Do not attach wires to a martin house, especially if they lead to trees, buildings, or to the ground. If your yard has too many trees near the martin housing, relocate the housing to a more open area, mount the housing higher, or remove trees to create a more open site. Boat docks make ideal locations for mounting a martin house or gourd rack.

Houses and gourds should be painted white, or a light pastel color. White housing seems to attract martins best. White housing reflects the heat of the sun, keeping nestlings cooler. If your housing is not attracting any tenants, check the dimensions and change where needed. Nest checks will not cause martins to abandon their nests or their group site. The most common reason martins abandon their site is because predators have raided their nests. It only takes one visit by a snake, raccoon, or squirrel, or a few fly by's by an owl, hawk or crow, to cause all the surviving birds to abandon the site.


(Image:Brian E. Small)



Share this post.
06.26.13  12:00PM    KAREN B








Categories: backyard habitat,gardening
Backyard DIY: Butterfly House
BACKYARD HABITAT


Making a butterfly house for the garden is an easy weekend project that requires just a few pieces of wood and some common hand tools.

Step 1 - Cutting the Frame

Use your ruler and pencil to measure and mark off the following sizes:
Back: 4 1/2-inches by 18-inches
Front: 4 1/2-inches by 18-inches
Top: 7-inches by 7-inches
Bottom: 4 1/2-inches by 6-inches

Now that you have your pieces measured it's a good idea to make a mark in the center of each one so it is easy to see which is the top, bottom or sides.

Step 2 - Adding Entrances

To create the openings that the butterflies will enter use your ruler and pencil to measure out 3 12-inch by 1-inch wide slits then cut them out. Make the center slit an inch or two higher than the other two slits.

Step 3 - Making a House, a Home

First, lay your back panel down and arrange the tree bark pieces any way you want to but cover the entire back panel leaving a 1/4-inch space along each edge. Next, nail the tree bark in place with your hammer so they are secured to the back. Now, nail the front and back pieces to the bottom of the butterfly house using one nail per 1/2-inch. Next, attach the side panels to the bottom of the construction as well as to the front and back panels you just attached.

Step 4 - Finishing Touches

All you need to do now is add the finishing touches to the inside of the butterfly house. Put a thin layer of moss at the bottom of the butterfly house being careful not to cover an opening or too much of the bark. Add one or two branches to finish your decorating of the inside. Finally, nail the angled roof in to place.

Step 5 – Hanging

Hanging your butterfly house is easy. The best place to put it is near your butterfly garden or other area they frequent. You can hang the butterfly house from a tree limb but the best course of action is to attach it to a pole or tall, wooden stake close to the butterfly garden.


(Image:Kids Lake)



Share this post.
06.19.13  12:00PM    KAREN B








Categories: backyard habitat,gardening
Backyard Critters: Solitary Bees
BACKYARD HABITAT

Most people are somewhat familiar with the social lifestyle of honeybees and bumblebees, the ones we mostly see around flowers. With the exception of Bumblebees, native wild bees are different in that they are largely solitary in their lifestyle. Common solitary bees are mason bees, plasterer bees, digger bees, sweat bees and carpenter bees.

Female bees are capable of stinging, but are not normally aggressive. They do not sting unless trapped, stepped on or otherwise endangered. Male bees are similar in size to females, they may act aggressively, but they cannot sting (male bees lack stingers).

When solitary bees emerge from their nests as adults they quickly groom themselves and set out to find food in the form of nectar. Male bees emerge earlier than female bees and often position themselves near floral resources, waiting to encounter receptive females. Male bees die shortly after mating and female bees go in search of a specific place to build a nest.

There are two main types of nests, ground nests and cavity nests. Ground nesting bees, such as sweat bees and alkali bees will dig out a subterranean nest in loose, sandy material. Cavity nesters such as leaf-cutter bees and orchard bees will look for pre-existing cavities such as hollow stems or holes in wood, that are just the right size to use as a nest. They will commonly use bee houses while ground nesting bees may nest in the wet ground below it. Once the nest is either dug or a suitable tube or hole is found, the female bee creates a series of cells, each of which will house a food source, a mix of pollen and nectar packed into a ball, and a single egg. The female bee will make numerous foraging trips to flowers collecting pollen and nectar that she will then deposit and pack into a ball in each cell. When the entire nest is complete she seals off the end and moves on to creating a new nest. It is on these trips to collect pollen and nectar for her nest that the female bee acts as a pollinator for wild plants and food crops.


Related: Backyard Critters: Rabbits

(Image:Ectomacrographic)




Share this post.
06.12.13  12:00PM    KAREN B








Categories: backyard habitat,gardening
Backyard Critters: Rabbits
BACKYARD HABITAT

Wild rabbits sure are cute, but they can be pesky, eating flowers from the garden and even the bark off of trees. There are ways to attract these critters and still protect your garden.

Rabbits tend to eat leafy greens they find in most yards. They will look for dandelions and clover if they can find it, or they may ravage a vegetable garden, so be careful about trying to attract bunnies to your yard. Rabbits will also eat many of the things squirrels and chipmunks will eat if they can not find leafy greens. Rabbit damage is almost always the result of their appetite for garden plants. They eat flower and vegetable plants in spring and summer and the bark of fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs in the fall and winter. A well-constructed fence is the most effective way to protect your plants. Two-foot high chicken wire supported by posts every six to eight feet is strong enough to keep rabbits out. Stake the bottom securely to the ground to prevent rabbits from pushing underneath it. You can, also, plant a small garden with plants just for the rabbits to feed on. Rabbits like to nibble the leaves of herbs like parsley, basil, dill, fennel, mint, oregano and thyme. If you wish to be kind to rabbits in the area, leave a large patch of untouched lawn for them to graze on, you will be setting the perfect table for a dandelion feast. Rabbits find dandelions delicious--the crunchy stems and delicate leaves are irresistible.

Cottontails like to live at the edges of open areas. In fact, they are rarely found in dense forests or open grassland. Plant bushes and evergreens along the edge of the yard, or add brush piles for the rabbits to hide in. Build brush piles by placing sticks on the ground, with smaller twigs and leaves on top. Rabbits are also attracted to weedy areas and tall grass, so allow an area to grow, and do not mow it. Mowing and raking yards can disturb rabbit nests. Rabbits also like hollow logs and often use them as a place to have their babies. Keep cats and other animals from the yard that can catch and injure any small rabbits.


Related: Backyard Birds: Ducks

(Image:Earth Times)



Share this post.
05.29.13  12:00PM    KAREN B








Categories: backyard habitat,gardening
Backyard Birds: Ducks
BACKYARD HABITAT

Ducks are attracted to water, so create a small pond or pool for them to swim in. They also like to enter ponds that have shallow edges. Be sure that the edges of your pond or pool are shallow enough for a duck to casually wade into the water. Put logs, sandbars, and rocks in the pond. Ducks use the pond for shelter and safety so placing something in the middle of the pond will give them a safe place to rest and groom themselves.

Plant grasses that will grow tall near the edge of the water, and do not trim them. Ducks are attracted to places with long grasses where they can hide and be protected from predators. Ducks will only go where they feel it is safe, therefore make sure that there are no duck predators in the area. Look out for cats, snakes and alligators, and call animal control to get rid of these animals so the ducks can move in, as well as for the safety of children and beloved pets.

Create a food plot for ducks to feed on when they are migrating. You may think about growing water plants both inside and around your pond. Ducks eat a variety of aquatic plants and will settle in areas where they will be able to feed. Some examples of plants that ducks like to eat are widgeon grass and wild celery. You could also place feeders near the pond, barely and corn are particular favorites.

Refrain from housing other animals near the pond, and give the ducks room to be comfortable. Ducks will not want to nest if there are other animals in close proximity, and they may also become defensive. Wooden duck nests placed in the woodlands near the pond will give ducks a safe place to nest and it is out of the way if you have a busy backyard. Of course you will also want to leave enough room for ducks to land, which should be about a 10 yard diameter.


Related: Building a Bee House

(Image:Insa S)



Share this post.
05.22.13  12:00PM    KAREN B








Categories: backyard habitat,gardening
Building A Bee House
BACKYARD HABITAT

Solitary bees are harmless and not aggressive. They rarely, if ever, sting unless trodden on or squashed between your fingers. They do not have painful stings like those of honeybees. They do not live in hives or build honeycombs, and they do not swarm. The mason bee, in particular, is a wonderful little creature. The male cannot sting and the female rarely stings. Different species of Mason Bees will occupy different diameters of tunnels. They will construct a series of 'cells' in each tunnel. In each cell they leave a block of pollen that they have collected from nearby flowers, lay an egg, and wall it up with mud they have collected from the ground nearby. In dry weather be sure to make a small mud patch for them.

Bee houses provide cover and places for bees to raise their young. They are easy and fun to make, or can be purchased commercially from several vendors.

All you need is a wooden box, open on one side, which is then fixed to a sunny fence or wall. You then fill it with blocks of wood or small logs in which you have drilled small holes. A variety of solitary bees will use these tunnels as nest sites. The box does not need to be deeper than 8 in., but it must have a sufficient amount of overhang at the top to keep rain off.

When you drill holes in logs or posts, make sure you include plenty of holes of smaller diameters. If you prefer you can drill these in separate pieces of wood or have a completely separate bee house for them. You will get many different species of small solitary bees using different size holes. You can also purchase commercial bee tubes and place them in your bee house.

You can remove the occupied logs and tubes and keep them in a cold dry place during the winter, to protect them from winter wet. Remember to replace them in the bee house by March. An unheated shed, porch, or carport will do. It is very important that you do not store in a warm place – they need to be cold and dry during the winter. Persistent wind-blown rain can dissolve the mud walls of the cells, and cause both wooden blocks and cardboard bee tubes to rot, and the young bees will succumb to fungus diseases. As autumns and winters can be the rainiest time of the year, you must be sure your bee tubes are protected from the excessive wet. If your bee house has a good overhanging roof and is rainproof you can leave the tubes out side in the elements. Otherwise they must be moved somewhere cold and dry during the autumn and winter. From April on wards, young bees that have over-wintered in a dormant state inside the tunnels will emerge, and start the cycle over again.

Only solitary bees will use the kind of bee house described here. The needs of bumblebees are very different.


Related: Constructing a Rain Garden

(Image:Bees Louise!)




Share this post.
05.15.13  12:00PM    KAREN B








Categories: backyard habitat,gardening
Constructing A Rain Garden
BACKYARD HABITAT

A rain garden is a planted depression that allows rainwater runoff to slow down from hard surfaces, such as driveways, roofs, and sidewalks. They also hold the water for a short period of time and allows it to naturally be absorbed into the ground. The purpose of a rain garden is to improve water quality. A rain garden can be thought of as a personal water quality system because it filters the runoff from your roof and lawn and recharges the groundwater. Rain gardens can cut down on the amount of pollution reaching creeks and streams by up to 30%. A rain garden also conserves water resources by reducing the need for irrigation.

Find out where the lines for water, sewer, electricity, natural gas, telephone, cable, and storm sewers are buried. You will need to stay at least two feet from them. Define the perimeter of your garden. The shape is up to you, but a good rule of thumb is to make the length about twice the width, the most commonly used shape is that of a kidney. The wider side should face uphill so it can catch as much of the run off as possible. If necessary, you should replace, repair, or move your gutters and downspouts to make sure that water will reach your garden. Start digging at the uphill side until you have reached the depth you need. If working on a slope, soil removed from the uphill side of the garden may be added to the downhill side to create a berm. Give the berm sloping sides and compact the dirt so it will not get worn down. Once you have prepared the hole, make sure it is even. A level string across the entire garden site works well as a benchmark. The bottom (deepest portion) should be level in all directions. This will increase the total area in which water will drain into the soil. Once the garden is dug to the proper depth and leveled, begin to loosen the soil to prepare for planting. Adding sand and compost to the soil will increase how absorbent it is and improve drainage. Finally you are ready to start planting. Make sure to plant from the center out so that you do not compact the soil you just spent all that time loosening.

Native plants are recommended for rain gardens because they usually do not require fertilizer and are tolerant of the local climate, soil, and water conditions. The plants should be a selection of wetland edge vegetation, such as wildflowers, rushes, ferns, shrubs and take up any excess water that may flow into the garden. Water filters through the soil layers before entering the groundwater system. Roots enhance this process by maintaining or even increasing the soils ability to absorb the water, redistributing the water, and sustain microscopic organisms that play a role in bio filtration. Also, through the process of transpiration, rain garden plants help return water vapor into the atmosphere.

Your whole garden can become a rain garden, and each part of the whole can become a smaller rain garden in itself.


Related: Creating A Dragonfly Habitat

(Image:NYSEFC.org)




Share this post.
05.08.13  12:00PM    KAREN B








Categories: backyard habitat,gardening
Creating A Dragonfly Habitat
BACKYARD HABITAT

Dragonflies and damselflies live their entire life around water. So as a gardener attempting to attract the right insects and wildlife to your backyard habitat you want to make sure you have a small water source so you can attract these aerial acrobats that not only act as a food source for birds but make a great alternative to mosquito control than harsh bug sprays. Catering to these large flying insects is not hard they only need # things to attract them and keep them coming back.

A water element. Typically an earthen or plastic lined pond with sloped sides works best. However, you can be successful using a whiskey barrel or a fountain basin. The water needs to be clean and oxygenated. That means you will need a small pump to add some movement to the water. The larvae will also need sunlight to provide warmth to their cold-blooded bodies. At least 70% of the pond should receive sun. The remaining 30% should be covered with floating plants such as water lilies to provide shelter and inhibit algae growth.

No fish. Fish will eat any larvae or nymphs that happen to hatch.

Sunshine. Place your pond where it will be protected from wind and will get midday sun. Dragonflies and damselflies, much like butterflies, need the warmth of sun in order to get the energy they need to eat and mate. Put a few flat rocks near your pond's edge or try putting a few perching sticks in the middle of your pond. Ordinary bamboo stakes, the kind you use to stake tomato plants, will do the job just fine.

Varied plant life in and around the pond. Provide erect and submerged plants as well. Submerged plants are home for the larva and erect plants allow a way out of the water when the nymphs reach the adult stage. Floating plants provide an area where adults can mate. A grassy next the pond can act as a safe haven for new adults while they dry out and spread their wings. It will also attract small insects that they will feed on.


(Image:Flixr-JSB PHOTOGRAPHS)

Related: Building a Butterfly Garden



Share this post.
05.01.13  12:00PM    KAREN B








Categories: backyard habitat,gardening
Building A Butterfly Garden
BACKYARD HABITAT

Brightly colored butterflies can be a welcome addition to your wildlife garden both for their beauty and their usefulness in pollinating flowers. Attracting butterflies involves incorporating plants and elements that will serve the needs of all life stages of the butterfly. They will need places to lay eggs, food plants for their caterpillars, and places to form chrysalides and nectar sources for adults.

Here are ten tips to get you started toward building and developing a butterfly garden as a part of your backyard habitat.

Plant native flowering plants: Because many butterflies and native flowering plants have co-evolved over time and depend on each other for survival and reproduction, it is particularly important to plant native flowering plants local to your geographic area. Native plants provide butterflies with the nectar or foliage they need as adults and caterpillars.

Plant type and color is important: Butterflies are quite good at discriminating colors, which means that they are often to red, yellow, orange, pink and purple blossoms. Flowers that are flat-topped or clustered are great for larger butterflies that need more space to land and stay on the flower comfortably. Flowers with short tubes make it easier for smaller butterflies to feed. Having a variety of flower types and colors will enhance your chances of attracting a variety of butterflies. Butterflies are also nearsighted. Once they get within 10-12 feet of an object, they can see it quite well, but at a distance most things appear blurred. To attract the most butterflies, you should plant your nectar plants in masses. Large areas of the same color will be easier for the butterflies to see from a distance, and will encourage them to come in for a closer look.

Plant good nectar sources in the sun: Your key butterfly nectar source plants should receive full sun from mid-morning to mid-afternoon. Like all insects, butterflies are ectotherms, meaning they can't regulate their body temperatures internally. Instead, they rely on the sun's energy to warm their bodies so they can function. This is especially important on cooler days, because butterflies cannot fly when the temperatures dip below about 55° Fahrenheit. When you are planning your butterfly habitat, think about providing good basking spots in the sunniest areas of your yard. If sun is limited in your landscape, try adding butterfly nectar sources to the vegetable garden.

Plant for continuous bloom: The key to attracting butterflies is nectar, and lots of it. Try to plant so that when one plant stops blooming, another begins. Butterflies that overwinter as adults need nectar sources early in the season, and fall migrants, like monarchs, need plenty of nectar to fuel their long journeys south.

Say no to insecticides: Insecticides such as malathion, Sevin, and diazinon are marketed to kill insects. Do not use these materials in or near the butterfly garden or really anywhere on your property. Even "benign" insecticides, such as Bacillus thuringiensis, are lethal to butterfly-caterpillars. If you're trying to support insect life in your backyard, you don't want to use chemicals or other substances that kill them. Caterpillars need foliage to feed on, so you will have to learn to share.

Feed butterfly caterpillars: If you don't "grow" caterpillars, there will be no adults. Bringing caterpillar foods into your garden can greatly increase your chances of attracting unusual and uncommon butterflies, while giving you yet another reason to plant an increasing variety of native plants. Many caterpillars feed on trees and shrubs, rather than herbaceous plants, so include some woody plants in your habitat. In many cases, caterpillars of a species feed on only a very limited variety of plants. Most butterfly caterpillars never cause the leaf damage we associate with some moth caterpillars.

Provide a place for butterflies to rest: Butterflies need sun for orientation and to warm their wings for flight. Place flat stones in your garden to provide space for butterflies to rest and bask in the sun. If your backyard is subject to breezy conditions, think about how you can provide the butterflies with protection from the wind. Try to plant your nectar and host plants where the house, a fence, or a line of trees will buffer the wind. You could also provide a windbreak by planting taller shrubs or trees to block the prevailing winds from your butterfly garden.

Give them a place for puddling: Butterflies often congregate on wet sand and mud to partake in "puddling," drinking water and extracting minerals from damp puddles. Place coarse sand in a shallow pan and then insert the pan in the soil of your habitat. Make sure to keep the sand moist with your garden hose each day. Butterflies cannot drink from birdbaths or fountains. Instead, they get their water by taking up moisture from mud puddles. Butterflies also get important minerals by drinking their water from puddles. A complete butterfly habitat will include one or more puddling sites.

Keep bird feeders and birdbaths away from your butterfly garden: While creating a backyard habitat for both birds and bugs is a great thing to do, you do need to think of the predator-prey relationships in your yard. Birds prey on insects. Consider placing any bird feeders and birdbaths in a separate area of your backyard, just so it is not quite as easy for the birds to find the buffet of caterpillars in your garden.

Provide cover for overwintering butterflies and caterpillars: We tend to think of butterflies as summer insects. Butterflies may overwinter in any of their four life stages, depending on the family or genus. A number of butterflies survive the cold in the adult stage, by simply tucking themselves under loose bark or hiding inside a tree cavity. An easy tip: Do not rake all your leaves. Leave some fall leaf litter in a part of your yard for hibernating caterpillars. Brush piles and stored firewood also makes excellent shelters.


(Image:HGTVGardens)

Related: Attracting Hummingbirds



Share this post.
04.24.13  12:00PM    KAREN B








Categories: backyard habitat,gardening
Getting Started
BACKYARD HABITAT

A backyard habitat is the manipulation of your yard into a garden that provides essential resources for different kinds of wildlife, such as birds, butterflies, small mammals and other creatures. This could entail something as simple as planting a few host plants for butterflies or as elaborate as creating a place that provides food, water, summer shade, winter refuge, perches, nesting sites, and hiding places for all kinds of wildlife. This ecologically-minded kind of gardening is especially critical in areas of excessive or urban development. Creating a Backyard Habitat is a great way for you and your family to enjoy observing nature and wildlife every day in your own backyard. Whether you have an apartment balcony or a 20-acre farm, you can create a garden that attracts beautiful wildlife and helps restore habitat in commercial and residential areas. By providing food, water, cover and a place for wildlife to raise their young.

Here are a few tips to get you started toward building and developing a backyard habitat of your own.

Get rid of invasive plants. Invasive weeds can end up choking the life out of your native plants. First thing to do is clear them out and make some room for your local plant life. To find out more about which weeds are invasive go to plants.usda.gov.

Plant more natives. To find out what plants are native to your area check out YARDMAP. A web-based tool from Cornell's Lab of Ornithology that allows you to map out your backyard with live satellite images as well as tips and plants to attract certain birds.

Reduce pesticide use. Instead opt for more natural ways of repelling bugs with plant pairing and home remedies.

Provide wildlife with the their 4 basic needs. Wildlife only need four things to make them stay in your backyard. A source of food, planting native forbs, shrubs and trees is the easiest way to provide the foliage, nectar, pollen, berries, seeds and nuts that many species of wildlife feast on. You can also supplement your plants with hand-made feeders. A source of clean water is also important. Water is not just for drinking, it is also important in bathing and reproduction. Wildlife needs a place to take cover from predators, weather, and you. Things such as shrubs, tall decorative grass, and even dead trees give them a place to stay. Finally, they need a place to raise their young. Places for cover can double as place for young ones.

After that there is not much else to do but build upon and cater to specific species.


( Image: GardeningGoneWild )



Share this post.
03.20.13  12:00PM    KAREN B








Categories: backyard habitat,gardening